Used 350 Engines For Sale: Find Local Deals

Looking to buy a used 350 engine? You've come to the right place. Whether you're restoring a classic muscle car, upgrading your current vehicle, or just need a reliable replacement, a used Chevy 350 engine offers a fantastic blend of power, affordability, and widespread availability. This guide will walk you through finding a quality used 350 engine for sale near you, ensuring you get the best value and a solid powerplant for your project.

Why Choose a Used Chevy 350 Engine?

The Chevrolet 350 cubic inch V8 (often referred to as a "350 Small Block") is legendary in the automotive world. Its enduring popularity stems from several key factors:

• Versatility: From Camaros and Corvettes to pickup trucks and muscle cars, the 350 has powered a vast array of GM vehicles across decades. This means parts are abundant, and mechanics are familiar with them.
• Power and Performance: Even in stock form, a 350 offers satisfying horsepower and torque, making it a popular choice for performance upgrades and daily drivers alike.
• Affordability: Compared to new crate engines or more exotic powerplant options, a used 350 engine is significantly more budget-friendly. This makes it an ideal choice for restoration projects with tight budgets.
• Availability: Due to its long production run and widespread use, finding a used 350 engine for sale is generally easier than locating many other engine types.

Our analysis shows that a well-maintained used 350 can provide years of reliable service, especially when inspected and possibly refreshed before installation. In our experience, the cost savings often outweigh the minor risks, provided you know what to look for.

Where to Find Used 350 Engines for Sale

Locating a used 350 engine requires a multi-pronged approach. Combining online resources with local searches can yield the best results. Here are the primary avenues:

Online Marketplaces

Online platforms offer a vast selection and the convenience of browsing from home. These are often the first stop for many enthusiasts:

• eBay Motors: A massive inventory of engines from private sellers and professional rebuilders. You can often find specific displacements, years, and even performance variants.
• Craigslist: Excellent for local finds. You can often negotiate directly with sellers and arrange to inspect the engine in person. Search terms like "350 engine," "Chevy V8," or "small block Chevy" can be effective.
• Facebook Marketplace: Similar to Craigslist, this platform is great for local discoveries. Join local car groups or "for sale" pages for specialized listings.
• Dedicated Auto Parts Websites: Sites like Jegs, Summit Racing, or even specialized engine broker sites sometimes list used or take-out engines. While less common for used, it's worth checking.

Local Auto Parts Stores & Junkyards

Don't underestimate traditional sources:

• Salvage Yards (Junkyards): These are treasure troves for used parts. Call ahead to see if they have any GM vehicles from the 70s, 80s, or 90s that might contain a 350. You might need to pull it yourself or pay a fee for them to do it.
• Performance Engine Shops: Local speed shops or engine builders often have take-out engines from customer builds or engines they've refurbished. These might be slightly more expensive but often come with a degree of confidence or a limited warranty.

Car Shows & Swap Meets

Attending local car shows or swap meets can be a goldmine. You'll find private sellers showcasing engines, and the in-person interaction allows for direct questions and immediate inspection.

What to Look For When Buying a Used 350 Engine

Buying a used engine involves more than just finding a low price. Thorough inspection is crucial to avoid costly mistakes. Here’s a checklist:

Visual Inspection

• Overall Cleanliness: A suspiciously clean engine might be hiding leaks. Conversely, an engine caked in grime can make inspection difficult.
• Corrosion/Rust: Look for significant rust on the block, heads, or accessories. This could indicate it sat outside or in a damp environment.
• Cracked Block or Heads: Carefully examine the engine block and cylinder heads for any visible cracks, especially around the exhaust ports or cylinder walls.
• Oil and Coolant Leaks: Check for signs of fresh or old leaks around the valve covers, oil pan, water pump, and intake manifold. Are there signs of sludge or milky residue in the oil fill cap or dipstick? This can indicate a blown head gasket or internal coolant leak.
• Exhaust Manifold Condition: Look for cracks or warping.

Mechanical Checks (If Possible)

• Pull the Dipstick: Check the oil condition. It should be amber or dark brown, not milky (coolant contamination) or full of metal shavings.
• Check the Radiator Cap: Look for oil or thick sludge, which also indicates internal issues.
• Spin the Engine (By Hand): If you can access the crankshaft pulley bolt, try to turn the engine over by hand (use a wrench). It should turn smoothly without any grinding or binding. This helps check for seized components or internal damage.
• Compression Test: This is the gold standard. If the seller allows, perform a compression test. All cylinders should have relatively even compression within the manufacturer's specs. Significant variation indicates worn rings or valve issues. A good starting point for a healthy 350 is typically over 150 PSI per cylinder, with less than 10% variation between the highest and lowest readings.
• Leak-Down Test: Even better than a compression test, this reveals where compression is being lost (rings, valves, head gasket).

Known History & Mileage

• Ask Questions: Where did the engine come from? What vehicle was it in? Why was it removed? Was it running when removed? What is the estimated mileage?
• Look for Markings: Casting numbers on the block and heads can help identify the original engine family and even the year range. This can be crucial for matching your vehicle or understanding its potential performance.

Common Chevy 350 Engine Variants

Not all 350s are created equal. Knowing the basic types can help you find the right one:

Standard Factory 350s

These are the workhorses found in millions of GM vehicles. They range from milder versions in trucks and sedans to more performance-oriented variants in muscle cars. Casting numbers can help differentiate them.

High-Performance 350s (e.g., L46, L82, LT1)

Chevrolet offered several performance versions of the 350 over the years. These often featured higher compression ratios, better camshafts, improved cylinder heads, and dual-plane or even single-plane intake manifolds. Examples include:

• L46: A high-performance 350 often found in Corvettes (around 350 hp).
• L82: A later performance 350, also common in Corvettes, known for good torque and reliability.
• LT1: The iconic late-60s/early-70s performance 350, featuring a distinctive intake manifold and often higher horsepower ratings.

Crate Engines (New & Remanufactured)

While this guide focuses on used engines, it's worth noting that new or remanufactured crate engines are an option. They typically cost more but offer guaranteed performance and often come with warranties. If your budget allows, these can be a safer bet. — Las Vegas Weather In May: What To Expect

Preparing Your Used 350 Engine for Installation

Even a seemingly good used engine benefits from a pre-installation check-up. Our experience shows that investing a little upfront can save a lot of headaches later. — Lions Halftime Show: Who's Performing?

Essential Checks and Services

• New Gaskets: Replace all external gaskets – oil pan, valve covers, intake manifold, timing cover, rear main seal, and front seal. This is inexpensive insurance against leaks.
• Oil Pump and Pickup Tube: Consider replacing the oil pump and ensuring the pickup tube is securely attached. A failed oil pump is catastrophic.
• Timing Set: Inspect the timing chain and gears. If there's any slack or wear, replace them. This is relatively cheap and easy while the front of the engine is accessible.
• Water Pump & Thermostat: If the engine doesn't come with them, or if they look old, replace them.
• Spark Plugs & Wires: Fit new ones regardless of what's currently installed.
• Flush the Cooling System: Thoroughly flush the block passages to remove any old coolant residue or debris.
• Flush the Oil System: After installation, it's critical to run the engine briefly with fresh oil and a flush additive, then change the oil and filter again. This removes any residual contaminants from storage.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: How much should I expect to pay for a used 350 engine?

Prices vary wildly based on condition, year, performance level, and location. A basic, running used 350 pulled from a truck or sedan might range from $300 to $800. Performance variants or those with verified low mileage could go from $800 to $1500 or more. Always factor in potential repair or refresh costs. — Jonesboro, GA Weather: Current Conditions & Forecast

Q2: What's the difference between a 350 and a 305 or 327?

The primary difference is displacement (cubic inches). The 350 has a 3.48-inch bore and a 3.75-inch stroke. The 305 has a 3.75-inch bore and a 3.48-inch stroke, and the 327 has a 4.00-inch bore and 3.25-inch stroke. The 350 generally offers a better balance of torque and horsepower for most applications compared to the 305, while the 327 is known for its high-RPM capabilities.

Q3: Can I put a 350 engine in any car that had a V8?

Often, yes, but it requires careful consideration of the engine mounts, transmission compatibility, exhaust system, and space under the hood. Swapping a 350 into a vehicle originally equipped with a different V8 or even a 6-cylinder often involves custom fabrication or specific swap kits. For example, putting a 350 into an early Nova or a pickup truck is relatively straightforward.

Q4: How do I identify the specific year and model of a Chevy 350 engine?

You'll need to find the casting numbers on the engine block (usually on a flange near the camshaft/distributor) and cylinder heads (often on the ends or top). Websites like Mortec.com or various Chevy enthusiast forums provide extensive databases to decode these numbers and pinpoint the engine's origin and specifications.

Q5: What mileage is considered too high for a used 350 engine?

While mileage is a factor, the engine's maintenance history and how it was treated are more important. A well-maintained 350 with 150,000 miles might be in better shape than a neglected one with 80,000 miles. If no history is known, engines over 120,000 miles should be approached with caution and ideally undergo a thorough inspection, including a compression/leak-down test.

Q6: Should I buy an engine that's still in the car?

Ideally, yes. An engine still in the vehicle allows you to see it run, hear it idle, and potentially check for leaks or strange noises. This is a significant advantage over buying an engine already pulled and sitting on a stand. However, ensure the seller will allow you to start it and run it for a reasonable time.

Conclusion: Your Next Project Awaits!

Finding a quality used 350 engine for sale near you is an achievable goal with the right approach. By leveraging online resources, exploring local salvage yards, and knowing what to inspect, you can secure a powerful and affordable powerplant for your automotive dreams. Remember that due diligence – asking questions, performing thorough visual and mechanical inspections, and considering a pre-installation refresh – is key to a successful project. Happy hunting!